1か月間の中国旅行

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前回の投稿でも既述したように作者は今年の7月の一か月間を中国で過ごしました。ずっとこのことについて書こうと思っていたのですが、ようやく概要くらいは書こうかなという思いになりました。

旅の簡単な概要

東京羽田→(飛行機(深圳経由)8時間)→広州→(バス2時間)→肇慶→(高速鉄道2時間)→桂林→(高速鉄道2時間半)→南寧→(鉄道10時間)→昆明→(高速鉄道5時間)→大理→(高速鉄道3時間)→麗江→(バス10時間)→攀枝花→(鉄道8時間)→峨眉山→(高速鉄道2時間半)→成都→(高速鉄道2時間)→重慶→(飛行機2時間)→広州→(飛行機5時間)→東京羽田

旅の始まりは羽田。広州への中国南方航空の便で、なぜか中国南方航空は「飛行機モード」でも携帯電話を飛行中、機内で使えない(3度くらい使っていることがばれたw)。5時間ほどで広州につくつもりだったが、悪天候のため、飛行機は深圳に着陸。そこで2時間ほど機内に閉じ込められ、また飛び立ち、ようやく広州白雲空港へ着いた。そこで待ち合わせをしていた旅のお供と合流し、広州にいる2日間はその人の親戚のアパートで過ごすこととなった。その間、珠江の夜景クルーズや中華料理を食べまくった。

孫中山記念館

孫中山記念館

広州の珠江の夜景

広州の珠江の夜景

サトウキビジューススタンド

サトウキビジューススタンド

その後、バスで肇慶へ向かい、付近の鼎湖山という仏教とつながりのある山へ行ったりして数日過ごし、その後は高速鉄道で桂林へ向かった。
桂林についた当日、高校の時から行きたいと思っていた漓江(りこう、リージャン)を訪れるツアーに参加した。バスは冷房が効かず、いろいろと疲れるものだったが、漓江での景色は最高だった。バスの冷房が効かないだけだったらよかったが、結局、我々ツアー客は途中で怪しい宝石店に連れていかれ、1時間くらい警察とつながりのあるボスらしき人物の金や翡翠の売り込みにつき合わされた。おかげで桂林の南にある陽朔という観光名所へ着いた頃には夕焼け時でそのまま舗装されてない道、冷房の効かないバスで桂林へ戻った。その次の日は龍脊梯田という桂林付近の棚田をこれまたツアーで訪れた。ただ、今回は途中で売り込みがないことを確認した上の少しお高めのツアーだったため、問題はなかった。棚田を見下ろせる場所までへのケーブルカー内でいきなり山手線の接近音が流れびびったが、製造業者の自慢話が始まる前のメロディーとして使われていた。

漓江

漓江

龍脊梯田

龍脊梯田

桂林からは高速鉄道で南寧へ向かった。南寧では青秀山と街中にある中山路という有名な通りの屋台の美食(メイシ―、意味:うまい飯)を食べたりした。中山路の屋台は特におすすめでうまいものをたくさん食べたい人にはうってつけ。また、南寧にいる間、SIMカードを買うことに成功した。なお、中国最大の通信業者、「中国移动」はパスポートを身分証として受け入れていないため、唯一?パスポートを受け付ける業者の「中国联通(チャイナ・ユニコム)」との契約をした。片言の中国語で何とか契約できたが、店員曰く、「ここに契約をしにくる日本人はたいてい中国語が少ししかできない」と言っていた(笑)。私が選んだ契約の通信量は微信、中国国内と広西省内のデータ量に分かれていて、少しわかりづらかったが、日本の通信料に比べれば圧倒的に安いのは確かだった。南寧での最終日はベトナム国境沿いの德天瀑布へのツアーに参加した。

青秀山

青秀山

南寧の中山路の屋台

徳天瀑布

徳天瀑布

その次の日は南寧から雲南省の省都の昆明へ列車で向かった。3段ベッドの最上段でおおよそ10時間過ごした。昆明についた後、予約していたホテルに向かおうとしたが、タクシー運転手のほとんどがホテルの名前を聞いてもわからない。おかしい。結局、ホテルまでは歩いていくことになったが、なぜか泊まるはずのホテルの外観は真っ暗。どうやらホテルは停電していたらしく、部屋は10階かなんかでエレベーターが使えないため、階段を使わなければならないとのこと。当然、別のホテルに変更した。昆明では龍門や民族村を訪れ、カラオケ(キャバクラみたいのじゃないほう)にも行った。日本の曲は少ないが一応、SMAP、安室奈美恵、西野カナやAquaTimezの曲はあった。

車内の様子

昆明

昆明

昆明駅内部の様子

昆明駅内部の様子

昆明からは列車で5時間で大理へ。大理古城、崇聖寺三塔、蒼山や天龍八部影視城を訪れた。残念ながらケーブルカーの営業時間は終わるのが早いため、蒼山の頂上へは行けなかった。しかし、そのおかげで蒼山のふもとにある天龍八部影視城という映画のために作られた舞台セットを見ることができた。その付近には600年前に中国に留学したとされる日本人僧4人を供養した「日本四僧塔」がある。そこには高倉健の建てた碑があり、たまたま映画「単騎、千里を走る」を撮影中にこの塔に遭遇し、碑を建てただとか。

大理からは列車で3時間で麗江に着いた。ここの列車はなぜかAIRの「鳥の詩」を度々流していた。麗江では麗江古城、束河古镇などを見て回った。

大理古城の城壁

大理古城城壁

麗江古城

麗江古城内

麗江からは瀘沽湖へ行こうとも思ったが、ビザの期限も迫っていたから断念。そのため、麗江からはバスで10時間の攀枝花へ向かうことに。ルートは危険な山道で途中でかなりひどい渋滞もしていたが、その山道から見える谷や棚田の景色は最高だった。

攀枝花は四川省にある小都市で毛沢東の命令によって作られた都市だとか。見どころはあまりなく、一夜過ごしただけだが、付近には鉄工所や工場などがあり、独特な工業都市の雰囲気があった。次の目的地、峨眉山までは鉄道で8時間。

狭い山道に大型トラックが何台も

狭い山道に大型トラックが何台も

攀枝花駅

攀枝花駅

峨眉山山頂

峨眉山山頂

峨眉山は中国の四大仏教名山のひとつで頂上には仏教の寺院や仏像などがある。頂上からはご来光を眺め、見た後の余った時間は大佛禅院という仏教寺院を見たりした。峨眉山からは高速鉄道で成都に向かった。

成都では文殊院、寛窄巷子、武侯祠、杜甫草堂、春熙路とパンダの繁殖研究基地などへ行ったりした。

成都からは重慶へ向かった。重慶の夕焼けは美しく、重慶火鍋も辛いとはいえど美味であった。本場の回鍋肉も日本のものとはものが違い、よりおいしいと感じた。

成都の天府広場

成都の天府広場

重慶火鍋

重慶火鍋

重慶の夕焼け

重慶の夕焼け

重慶からは夜中の便で飛行機で広州に。広州のホテルに着いたのは朝の3時ごろ。次の日はそのまま羽田行きの便に乗り、長い旅に幕を降ろした。

ルート

陸路のルートはこんな感じでした。4000キロくらいですかね・・・。日本横断は3000キロくらいなので、どれだけ中国がでかいかわかります。ベトナム国境沿いのポイントは徳天瀑布です。

楽しい旅でしたが、まだまだ見足りないですね。機会があればまた中国に行って、違う場所をみていきたいと思います。それではまた。

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